Whether it’s the sight of ancient palaces once hidden in jungle undergrowth, the sound of children singing as they help their families ply a riverside trade or the smell of aromatic jasmine rice, your senses will remember your holiday in Cambodia long after the trip is over.

This French colonial-influenced Asian country has suffered deeply at the hands of despotic rulers over the years but its people have emerged proud of their homeland and determined that the world should see its beauty, culture and fascinating history.

You’ll more than likely start your trip in the capital, Phnom Penh. This stunning city, once known as the Pearl of Asia thanks to its wonderful French colonial buildings, sits at the confluence of the Tonlé Sap, Mekong and Bassac rivers and, with two million residents, is by far the busiest of the country’s cities.

Wander the grand boulevards and take in the Royal Palace close to the banks of the Tonlé Sap. Its grounds house the fabulous Throne Room of Prasat Tevea Vinichhay, site of the coronation of kings and official ceremonies, as well as the king’s official residence, the Khemarin. Don’t miss the glorious Silver Pagoda too, made of 5000 glittering silver tiles that cover the floor.

Absorb the culture of Cambodia’s people with a trip to the National Museum which sits in a sweet terracotta building close to the Royal Palace and houses one of the world’s largest collections of Khymer art. Afterwards, grab some lunch and head northeast of the city to Wat Phnom, positioned in a shady tree-covered hill, where you can sit and watch the locals arrive with lotus flowers as they offer up prayers – people believe that the temple is powerful enough to grant any wish.

But there’s much else to see. Explore Koh Kong in the Cardamom and Elephant Mountains region where islands, rivers, waterfalls and jungles provide wonderful trekking country – and the beaches here are considered some of the best in South East Asia.

Pretty Sihanoukville, dotted with islands and white sandy beaches, draws the crowds these days too, with its laid-back grass shack restaurants and bars and its fun vibe. Fishing, scuba diving, snorkelling and boat trips to the islands fill the days of many of the holidaymakers here (as well as a fair bit of lazing in the sun).

The gateway to the Bokor National Park, the small town of Kampot in south-east Cambodia is a must. Wildlife watchers head off through old tea plantations and jungle towards the ruins of a French colonial resort at the top of Bokor Mountain, the trek punctuated by the call of gibbons and the singing of the rare Orange-headed Thrush.

But no trip to Cambodia would be complete without a trip to the monumental Angkor Wat. Sitting regally across a whole square kilometre amidst encroaching jungle, this is the world’s largest temple, the perfection of Kymer architecture, and reaches as high as Notre Dame in Paris. Despite being one of the wonders of the ancient world, it doesn’t feel overcrowded and it’s easy to sit peacefully, gazing up at the soaring central tower’s magnificence.